Bicycle Updates

Rear Frame Lock

Well, I’ve finally managed to get the rear frame lock for the Raleigh DL-1. I ended up getting the ABus lock, rather than the AXA one that I had on my Raleigh Sports, and that WorkCycles uses on their bikes, because it was made for wider tires. My bike doesn’t have particularly wide tires for a city bike, but it does have really large fenders, and I didn’t think the AXA, after measuring it, was guaranteed to fit over the fenders, so I went for the ABus.

I can say that the ABus was MUCH easier to get on the bike than the AXA one was. It has large, heavy plastic straps that loop around the lock and the frame, and have grooves in them, so it basically locks it in place like a really heavy zip tie would. If anyone has one of these, and has an idea what to do with the ends of the plastic bands, that would be welcome :) They’re not really in the way, but it does look a bit goofy.

Rear Frame Lock

It may seem like that’s not the most secure method of attaching a lock to a bike, but if you think about it, if the lock is locked, it still prevents the person rolling the bike or removing the rear wheel, even if the lock is detached from the frame, so it really still does its job. The AXA lock uses a similar, but more complicated system with metal ties to attach the lock to the frame, or in the case of WorkCycles, they drill small holes in the seat stays because they know they are sturdy enough to handle it, and then screw it onto the frame.

There are a few differences between this lock and the AXA lock. With this lock, you can remove the key when it’s unlocked, which is not the case with the AXA lock. This one also, rather than having a separate port where the chain lock plugs into, has it integrated into the knob that pushes the lock through the wheel, so you stick the end of the chain lock into the knob, turn the key, and then push the knob through. There is a catch in the track that the knob runs in that catches the end of the chain lock and holds it in place when the lock is locked. The chain is shorter than the one for the AXA lock, which is unfortunate, but I think it will work out alright in almost all cases.

Rear Frame Lock

Anyway, I’m ecstatic to have the rear frame lock again, as I missed using it just to run into shops quickly and not worry about having to un-do the U lock and lock my bike up fully, if it was going to be in plain sight and I wasn’t going to be away from it more than a few minutes. I’m also still very used to this kind of lock setup, and the U lock always felt cumbersome and awkward to me for whatever reason.

Next will be getting the generator-powered rear light replaced (this bike had one originally, but it was missing when we got the bike, so I have a battery-powered one for the time-being).

Anyone else made any useful or interesting updates to their bikes lately?

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  • http://twitter.com/KYouell Kath Youell

    I’m considering replacing the generator-run lights on the bakfiets because the first time I really needed the lights (I’m usually home with the kiddos by dark), I had the kids with me and it was only working intermittently. But here you are saying you’re switching from battery to generator lights. Can you elaborate or point me somewhere? I’d like to learn more.

    • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

      You might ask Clever Cycles about it – I know that some generator-powered lights have an “auto-detect” setting so they only go on when the ambient light level is what it deems low enough, which means if it’s just dark enough for them to go on, but you go through some lighter patches, they may go on and off. My wife’s WorkCycles was doing this for a bit, and we finally found the switch to turn them to “always on”.

      That’s just my first suspicion, especially since other than that, I’ve never had a problem with generator-powered lights not working (except with the cheap tire generator that came with the Electra Amsterdam, which would slip when it was wet, not useful in Portland). Other than the Amsterdam, the ones we’ve had have always been very reliable, and it’s so nice not having to worry about batteries, or removing your lights every time you park.

      • http://twitter.com/KYouell Kath Youell

        Ah, removing your lights when you park does sound like something I’d forget to do. I will ask them as there is a “0, 1, 2″ setting on the headlight that must do something; I wonder if that was the problem. Thanks for the tips.

        • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

          Yeah, I would bet that those are “on”, “off”, and “auto”. Probably could just try switching it until it stays on all the time.

  • http://twitter.com/lovelybicycle Lovely Bicycle!

    Nice, looks like a solid wheel lock. I am not really into them, but I’ve only tried the AXA models; maybe the one you have would change my mind.

    • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

      One thing you probably would like with this one is that, at least with the chain attachment in, the lock doesn’t snap open, so you wouldn’t have that problem as much. It does snap open if the chain attachment isn’t attached, but it still seems less vigorous than the AXA.

  • Anonymous

    I’m a midnight commuter down Terwilliger from OHSU (rain, fog, curvy road, etc), and though I love generator powered front LED lights, I’m not convinced of the efficacy of generator powered tail lights (at least mine).   On my bike with a generator hub, I’ve got a Supernova E-3 Pro lighting up the road in front, and a Supernova 161-T tail light.  The tail light only puts out 15 lumens, though it does have a stand-light function.  I feel like I have to supplement those 15 red lumens with a batter-powered tail light (DiNotte 300R tail light, putting out 300 lumens red light!).  Drivers coming around a curve can see a red “glow” and I hear them slow down before they achieve line-of-sight with me.  Even in daylight, I’ve gotten some nice comments from drivers about my tail light power.

    My 2 cents: Take a look at your tail light from a distance, in the dusk & rain, and fairly evaluate if you are giving drivers a good warning.

    • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

      Yeah, the brightness of the lights is a whole different criteria than the reliability, and you just have to judge that based on your circumstance. I’ve personally  never had run-ins with cars that were due to them not being able to see me, so I feel ok for myself, but I realize not everyone’s circumstances are the same as mine.

  • meowza

    I have an AXA lock on my 2011 Gazelle Tour Populair, and you can absolutely remove the key when it’s unlocked. Must be a difference between models in their line?

    • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

      Yeah, I think both AXA and ABUS have some models where you can remove the key while it’s unlocked, and some where you can’t.

  • Jim

    Thanks for the review. Where do you store the chain while you’re riding?

    • http://pin-hole.tumblr.com Dave

      Jim,

      I usually just toss it in one of my panniers. You could also wrap it around the seat post or strap it to your rear rack, etc. Lots of options! :)