Anatomy of Cold-Weather Clothing

This week in Portland has been unusually cold, with temperatures down around 15-17 degrees fahrenheit at night, and highs of between 25-30 F. That means that at the time I’m going to and from work, it’s been between 17-20 degrees in the morning and around 25 in the afternoon. While it may cause your cheeks to sting a bit, it’s quite possible to survive the cold, and even the wind, with a little bit of proper attire.

One of the most important things is keeping your head, hands and feet warm. For this, I use a knit wool hat with ear flaps which I acquired in Lithuania this summer:

Hat

Leather gloves and silk glove liners:

Gloves

And leather boots with heavy boot socks:

Socks

I have to admit that with this exact setup, I do get a bit cold – particularly my fingertips. I have some mittens that I wear if it gets any colder or if it’s really windy. The knit cap earflaps also don’t keep heavy wind out, so having something more solid would be nice if you have to deal with that a lot. For the few days in Portland where it gets down below 25, this works out ok for me.

Next, on to the legs and torso. I don’t typically find that my legs get cold, since they’re doing most of the work. I think it’s just important to keep the wind from hitting them directly, so any kind of good pants will do, really. Jeans, suit pants, whatever.

For the torso, it’s important just to have a few layers. Having a few layers which are not extremely tight allows air to build up between, which is then warmed by your body heat. I usually wear a t-shirt, then either a button-up shirt or sweater, and then a heavy wool coat. I have a few different coats that all work well, but this double-breasted one (see image below) is nice because it is very wind resistant, and if I need to, I can flip the collar up and it covers my neck really well. It is also very water-resistant, and I’ve ridden home 45 minutes in pouring rain and been totally dry underneath.

Speaking of neck, I wear a wool scarf as well, folded in half, with the loose end tucked through the loop made by folding it, and then pulled tight. Tuck the loose end into the front of your coat, and you’re good to go.

Layers

My torso actually often gets a little bit over-warm like this, but not enough to really be uncomfortable. I’ve never really had a problem with my torso getting cold, only my extremities.

Also, while you’re out on days like this, don’t forget to pick up a little something to warm you up when you get home:

Basket

I highly recommend this:

ВОДКА!

In order to make this:

http://givetothewheat.blogspot.com/2008/12/spiced-apple-cider-with-vodka-and.html

Most of all, take your time, have fun, and stop somewhere and warm up if you feel you need to. Enjoy the process of bundling, and enjoy the process of warming up when you get where you’re going – make sure you have some coffee or tea available and believe me, you’ll savor it. Happy riding!

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  • Anne

    I love that hat!

    It's quite true that dressing to ride in the kind of cold we're having now isn't nearly as daunting as it might seem. I made the mistake this morning of over-layering, and actually got to work in a bit of a sweat. Better that than erring on the under-dressed side, but a good reminder that it's not such an extraordinary thing to bike in this weather.

    Your whole winter-cycling look is very dapper.

  • Logan (at) rowdykittens.com

    Great post and very apropos to the current climate. I'm gonna have to try a few of these techniques. :) Love the proud coat flash pic. ;)

  • Eva

    I'm a great fan of leggings under my jeans, or leggings under rain pants if it's pouring. Although my legs certainly are the least-cold region in frigid weather, the wind really makes a difference and I like a couple of layers down there.

    I'd say the worst bits are my hands and my face. If I pull up my scarf to cover my nose and mouth, that's great for my cheeks and lungs, but my glasses get completely fogged up. It's a bit of a challenge.

  • Melissa

    I actually came across your blog because I am looking for a solution for my 77 Raleigh as far as stopping in the rain. I just got this bike and got stuck in a very bad rain storm and realized that my brakes did not work. I live in Chicago and want to commute on my bike for the winter. What kind of brakes and pads do you use?

  • Philip

    Dear Dave,

    I love the work you are doing here (I especially like your 'enjoyment' section — great pics), and I share your views on cycling. Publications like your own have given me valuable insights on how cycling can (or: should) be approached. Thanks for that. A bit of background on myself: I am a Dutchman, I lived in Amsterdam, and I moved to Dublin, Ireland in January this year. My girlfiriend is setting up a small bike business, I write a blog on bikes.

    I am now writing to ask if you would like to put a link to our blog Dutch in Dublin (www.dutchindublin.com) on your website. The blog is a personal account of our cycling lives in Dublin. Our goal is to show readers how romantic a simple thing as an everyday bike ride can be. For instance, we have a recurring item called 'A Classy Commute', in which I interview (colourful) Dubliners on their cycle to work. The Classy Commute stories are meant to show cycling is not something sporty, and that every day normal people enjoy the smell, hearing, and colour of their route by bike. Recent interviews I did were with:

    * Minister Eamon Ryan: http://dutchindublin.wordpress.com/2010/10/13/a-classy-commute-the-minster-for-communications-energy-and-natural-resources/
    * Actress Kerrie O Sullivan: http://dutchindublin.wordpress.com/2010/10/04/a-classy-commute-the-actress/
    * the Dutch Ambassador: http://dutchindublin.wordpress.com/2010/08/10/a-classy-commute-%E2%80%93-his-excellency-mr-robert-engels/
    * Minister Ciaran Cuffe: http://dutchindublin.wordpress.com/2010/11/21/a-classy-commute-the-minster-of-transport/

    Apart from the Classy Commute item, our posts focus on (for example) stylish cycling (see our post on sytlish traffic signs), new bike products (read about our test ride on the urban arrow), or the people of Dublin (see the portraits at the Bernard Shaw pub). I think our stories on Dublin might also be of interest to your readers.

    Yours truly,

    Philip

  • portlandize.com

    Anne: yeah, I was surprised when I first started riding in the cold, that I actually wanted to dress slightly lighter than I would if I were walking somewhere.

    Logan: the scarf especially is a good one – for torso layers, you could also do just a shirt with a medium weight fleece coat and then a windbreaker on the outside. I think really, if you get cold in any particular part of your body, increase layers by 1, or find a material that's more wind-proof :)

    Eva: Yeah, I can see leggings under pants being beneficial – I usually wear really tall socks when it's really cold out, so that kind of serves a similar purpose in covering the bottom half of my leg, which is the part that usually gets any wind that blows in the bottom of my pants.

    Melissa: I'm afraid I might have bad news for you – if your Raleigh has the original wheels, there might not be a lot you can do. I use the KoolStop salmon-colored brake pads, but my wheels have been re-built with aluminum rims, which brake better when it's wet. The original wheels on the Raleighs had steel rims and they get more slippery when it's wet. I just have the original brakes that came with my Raleigh, but those KoolStop brake pads do work really well. If you got the bike cheaply, and you don't mind putting in a bit of money to fix it up, getting the wheels rebuilt with aluminum rims shouldn't be *too* costly, and it will make a big difference in the wet-weather braking. Raleighs are great bikes, and it will probably last you your whole life if you take care of it, so it might be worth the investment if you really like the bike.

    Phillip: I will definitely check out your blog, thanks so much for writing! Best wishes from across the pond :)

  • Carlos

    Great post with lots of useful tips about not overdoing it (both in terms of layering and ignoring the signs that you ought to stop to warm up for a bit). In the extreme NYC cold of January and February, I sometimes wear a balaclava (mine is by Cannondale, but there are many others that are equally suited to the task). Also, Dottie from Let's Go Ride A Bike has suggested that you ought to get a pair of clear-lens safety goggles or ski goggles to keep the icy wind out of your eyes, but make sure they're vented so you don't have any trouble with them fogging up.

  • Adam

    Melissa, pretty much what Dave said. Probably the best brake pads for the steel rims on your bike is the KoolStop Salmon pads, but any improvements to your braking power in the rain will be severely limited by those rims. The best option would be to replace the rims with aluminum ones, but that is a bit pricey. $45 labor per wheel, quality rims would probably average about $70 per and up, a dollar per spoke ($72? – you should be able to reuse your old spokes if your mechanic agrees to it and you're willing to do the labor of dissembling the wheels yourself). I think the practical solution for the average rider would be to get the KoolStop pads, keep the old rims and always be acutely aware that your braking power in the rain is terrible, always ride slow in it and begin braking over a hundred feet before a stop.

  • Classic Copenhagen

    Ah, I was thinking about making a "how to" post also on this subject, so funny! Here in Copenhagen we are mid-blizzard, and this calls for extreme measures in the how-to section, so maybe I'll do one anyway. Just yesterday I invented an effective method to make my bicycle lock work, by giving it "mouth to mouth", or rather mouth to lock, haha. I can't believe I did not think of this before..

  • portlandize.com

    Carlos: yeah, I imagine a balaclava would help reduce the glasses fogging issue. In terms of goggles, it probably depends somewhat on how sensitive your eyes are, and how windy it is, but I could see that being useful if it's really cold and really windy.

    Classic Copenhagen: Thanks for the comment! You should do a how-to post on this, it's always nice to see how different people approach the same problem :) I actually thought about "mouth to mouth" with my lock the other day, in case I came out and it was frozen (it turned out that it was cold, but we didn't have any moisture, so no problems). Not the most romantic use of the mouth, but a good one, none the less :)

  • Classic Copenhagen

    Ha, I just thought of a funny way of preventing water from running into the locks. I'm gonna get right on that, and make a post on it next week. Plus the stay warm guide to the winter bicyclist, of course. I really like your blog. :-) Sandra

  • portlandize.com

    @Classic Copenhagen: looking forward to it! :) And, glad you like the blog! Thank you :)

  • Glenn

    FWIW REI sells wool sock liners. I find a combo of silk liners, wool liners and heavy wool outer sock (over the knee heavy fishing wader socks are the best) works very well. You should go up a half a shoe or boot size to avoid pinching the feet and reducing circulation. It means a dedicated pair of winter or cold weather boots, but really worth it.

    Glenn,

    Marrowstone Island
    WA

  • Adam

    Glenn, if one is going to go up a half shoe size to make room for "sock liners" why not just wear two bears of socks? Classic REI. :)

  • Velouria

    stunning outfit : )

    Last winter I had a very difficult time finding a layering method that worked for me. This year I am doing better so far, but this involved purchasing wool. I am now trying to knit and buy on sale a 100% wool wardrobe – everything! And I think I need some of those silk liners as well.

  • portlandize.com

    Glenn/Adam: well, in all fairness, I don't think most people own wool socks anymore (maybe I'm wrong, but this is the impression I get). So, having wool sock liners would perhaps make a difference, over having two pairs of acrylic or cotton socks.

  • portlandize.com

    @velouria: well, thanks :)

    honestly, I really should get a really nice pair of wool mittens to wear over the silk liners – I have some knit wool gloves that work well for slightly warmer temps (more like 32-45), but once it gets below freezing they definitely aren't warm enough. I do have some mittens, but they're kind of cheap crap and falling apart. Time for some new ones :)

    It's been amazing to me how weatherproof wool is (I guess it shouldn't be that surprising, since it's just animal hair) – but between cold and rain, I find it pretty much meets all my weather-proofing needs quite well.

  • Simply Bike

    Awesome! I'm a little late to this post but this is great stuff! I love how you still manage to look very much like yourself and very stylish while dressed for the cold. The hat is awesome too :)

    S.

  • portlandize.com

    If anybody wants some good advice on dressing for colder weather than Portland typically offers, this is a great tutorial for layering and makes me really reminisce about getting dressed for Lithuanian winter. Just try out different things and adjust the amount of clothing you need to wear based on how cold it is and how warm you get from cycling:

    http://freelancersfashion.blogspot.com/2009/12/anatomy-of-dressing-when-its-really.html

    Also, Dottie from Let's Go Ride A Bike has a nice tutorial on dressing for Chicago winter here:

    http://letsgorideabike.com/blog/2009/11/how-to-dress-for-winter-bike-commuting/

  • portlandize.com

    @Simply Bike: Just continuing with the theme of "if you have clothes in your closet that work for the weather where you live, they (mostly) work on a bike, too." :)

    I kind of love that hat as well :) Plus, it came from Lithuania, so it's a bit special anyway :)

  • Adam

    "Glenn/Adam: well, in all fairness, I don't think most people own wool socks anymore"

    Perhaps, but REI just leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Sock liners just seem like a bizarre niche product to me. An excuse to sell something to the hungry consumer. I purchase my merino wool socks of equal quality at an army surplus store for about $6. Granted, I suppose some people may only have access to an REI; but it is such a weird and unfortunate fact that REI has successfully put so many more reasonably priced competitors out of business through successful branding. REI is like the Apple of outdoorsey clothes.

  • portlandize.com

    Adam: not going to argue with you on that point, I agree. I would bet that for just about anybody, they could find wool socks elsewhere if they tried, and probably cheaper and potentially more well-made.

    I think in any case, it's a shame when a big box store/corporation puts smaller competitors out of business.

  • Amy Nieto

    That's great attire! I have a thrifted REI goose down coat that has been my SAVVVIOORR. I ride mostly with these really nice warm tights I bought at Freddy's. I have been a CHAMP this Winter so far (not easy for a Caribbean girl!!)

  • Anne

    I love the retro front bicycle light – are they generator lights? What's the brand? I would love to get one for my Raleigh!

  • portlandize.com

    Amy: Well done, keep on keeping on! I'm impressed, as I'm a native, and I still have a hard time going out in our winter weather some days. Cheers!

    Anne: The front light is a Busch & Müller Lumotec Retro light, and it is indeed a generator-powered light. As it looks like you're in Portland, I'd recommend getting it at Clever Cycles on SE Hawthorne and 9th, as I know they carry them or can get them if they are out of stock. I think the light is around $60, and it works great. If you don't already have a generator, the AXA tire generator they have is also about $50-60, but it will run both a front and rear light, doesn't slip in the rain, and works great with this light (that's the setup we have on the bike in the photo). Well worth the initial investment for convenience and never having to worry about batteries again.

  • Anonymous

    It's been very cold and snowy in Amsterdam too. A photographer of the local newspaper 'Parool' made these pictures of cyclists:

    http://www.parool.nl/parool/nl/2848/FOTO/photoalbum/detail/1068372/180510/0/Fietsers-trotseren-de-sneeuw-in-Amsterdam.dhtml

    ('volgende' means 'next')

  • portlandize.com

    @Anonymous: thanks for the link! We rarely have that much snow in Portland, and when we do it's complete chaos, with people stuck on the freeways for 5 hours trying to get home just 10 miles or so, and eventually just leaving their cars on the road and walking home down the freeway. In the city it's better, but still, in bad weather, it's obvious that the bicycle and your own two feet are by far the most reliable ways to get around.